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Author Topic: FED dreamin'  (Read 18579 times)

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Offline racerjohnson

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FED dreamin'
« on: December 24, 2009 7:38 pm »
I know most of us want to build an FED because, well, why not? Its hard to keep an eye out for the key parts when I don't know what to look for. I'll draw up a safer roll bar that doesn't look dumb cuz anything would still be safer than a stock bodied model A going down the strip, ya know?

Cost is important, but lets dream a little and have fun with this:

-98"-120" wheelbase
-Cheater slicks and the cheapest rear wheels that will look right
-19" motorcycle wheels up front
-Stock model A(?) front axle with lotsa holes
-stock A spring, I imagine some leaves could be removed
-one of my Olds motors
-auto tranny cuz I bet the "correct" trannies are unobtainable/cost prohibitive
-9" or Olds rearend


Parts that I'm guessing are owned by people on this board  (if they were theoretically available for purchase by me for the project)

-Cheater slicks ($150 ea. 8"x28"x15 from Mooneyes) and chrome steelies :) or 5 spoke mags
-Model A axle, spindles, and spring
-Steering wheel
-Olds engine/trans
-Moon tank ($260 mooneyes)
-master cylinder
-guages
-aluminum "Foot" gas pedal
-steering box
-other misc steering parts except that long steering rod
-Ubolts for front spring
-Wishbones for front suspension
-Ford tie rod ends

parts needed:
-motorcycle wheels and whatever bushings/bearings needed to mate them to ford spindles (I don't know how they did it, but I'm researching)
-front tires
-narrowed rearend w/gears, brakes, etc
-hand pump for fuel ($275 Mooneyes)
-adapter plate for powerglide trans

To be fabbed:
-Frame/roll hoops/spring perch/seat
-steering shaft extension for cowl steer
-sheetmetal
-motor plates/firewall
-seat cover
-a steel nutsack shield  :D
-fuel tank mount
-depending on frame design: dropped front axle ala Dukelet the imaginary hippie
-a coolant crossover tube for front of engine
-a push bar
-a pitman arm
-brackets for the bolted in rear axle
-a master cylinder mounting fixture
-hand brake lever
-an awesome green flake paint job with gold and red accents
-a name for the car


Anybody know how they mounted the front wheels, where to look for some possible sources for the front wheels and tires, where to find a narrowed rearend?

I talked to the gentleman from Duluth that owned this car. I'm in the process of getting info from him. This is the frame design (lyndwood) that requires a dropped front axle. This is the wheelbase/tire size proportions I'm thinking.

Anybody have any info/input on this or parts they'd make available for sale for the project?
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Offline racerjohnson

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2009 7:47 pm »
Another Lyndwood chassis
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Offline racerjohnson

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2009 7:59 pm »
It appears that this chassis design would make it possible to use a stock ford front axle which makes it attractive. Chassis doesn't look bad, either. MMMMMMmmmmm injected Olds.
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Offline flatheaded

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2009 10:31 pm »
Quote from: "racerjohnson"
Another Lyndwood chassis


  I got some info for the individual that owns this car. He goes by "The Shadow" on the HAMB.  We too have been gathering together parts the past couple of years to build a traditional FED.  One thing that I had wanted were the front spoked wheels. Long story short, The Shadow sent me directions on how they used to make them back in the day. Anyway, our plans for now are a 140"-150" car with a supercharged or injected Hemi (331 cid), or stroker SBC and a chute body rear portion but that is a long way down the road.  We are still putting together a frame table so I can build the frame in my garage.  I did buy the cockpit frame section from Mark Williams just in case I wanted to have it inspected and of course for safety. The rest of the frame is all straight pieces and pretty easy to fabricate. If you want the directions I have for the front wheels let me know. They utilize Harley Davidson hubs, spokes, and rims and are easily machined to fit on round or square back Ford spindles.
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Offline pinstriper40

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #4 on: December 25, 2009 5:04 am »
I'll donate the tie rod/ tie rod ends.  I'll make a seat cover for it too out of some metalflake for show and black for go...
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Offline racerjohnson

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #5 on: December 25, 2009 10:49 am »
Quote from: "pinstriper40"
I'll donate the tie rod/ tie rod ends.  I'll make a seat cover for it too out of some metalflake for show and black for go...


Thanks Joel, a metalflake seatcover would rock.

How about a moon tank? ;)
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Ryan

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #6 on: December 25, 2009 6:01 pm »
That first picture is Bitchin' Pete!  If you want to race, use the 394.  It's obviously the most power for your buck over a 324.  Before you get too involved in chassis design, look into NHRA rules as I don't belive any of those old chassis designs can pass tech.  If you want to race it, you might as well build it to race safely and at any track.  
If you are going to run a Powerglide,  I believe you have to cut down the transmission bell because of the extended bellhousing on the motor.  Otherwise it would be too much stress on the components.  We are working on the jigs to do this ourselves.
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Offline pinstriper40

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #7 on: December 25, 2009 9:24 pm »
I don't think you want to run a 10 gallon tank...  I may have a gas pedal for you to borrow too.
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Offline racerjohnson

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #8 on: December 25, 2009 11:45 pm »
Quote from: "Ryan"
If you want to race, use the 394.  It's obviously the most power for your buck over a 324.  Before you get too involved in chassis design, look into NHRA rules as I don't belive any of those old chassis designs can pass tech.  If you want to race it, you might as well build it to race safely and at any track.


So are the tech rules different for an exhibition event like the Hot Rod Drags or the HAMB Drags than for competition?

Here is the common dilemma with all that chassis stuff:  

I do understand the NHRA safety specifications are there for a reason. The specs have blood all over them, ya know? I guess the main idea would be to incorporate most NHRA legal safety features yet not ruin the vintage look/feel. Does that make sense and is that dumb? It is a gray area where wise counsel would be appreciated.

See the example below from a mid/late 60's vintage chassis. I don't like the rest of the chassis compared to the Lyndwoods above, but that roll hoop is safer than the ones above because it protects your head from guardrails if the car overturns. As I understand it is still not legal by today's standards at the 10 second ET. level. If I was able to run this at an exhibition, would you deem it as an acceptably safe design and still look the part on a Lyndwood chassis above?
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The problem with having an artistic eye is that you always end up making more work for yourself. -Cleatus on the HAMB

Offline racerjohnson

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #9 on: December 25, 2009 11:52 pm »
I like the short wheelbase Lyndwood on the left, but the roll hoop around the driver on the car on the right. Whaddya think?
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Offline racerjohnson

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #10 on: December 26, 2009 4:08 pm »
I'm assuming this roll cage is NHRA legal. I wouldn't consider any part of this car acceptable for anything.
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Offline Eyeball

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #11 on: December 26, 2009 5:34 pm »
Quote from: "racerjohnson"
I'm assuming this roll cage is NHRA legal. I wouldn't consider any part of this car acceptable for anything.


Looks like every other HA/GR car I have seen. What is not acceptable about it?
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Offline racerjohnson

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #12 on: December 26, 2009 5:53 pm »
I should have clarified. "The look" is not acceptable. It's ugly. There must be a way to make it NHRA safe and not ugly. I'm really not looking to run a car at NHRA events, just non-sanctioned stuff for fun, ya know?
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The problem with having an artistic eye is that you always end up making more work for yourself. -Cleatus on the HAMB

Offline flatheaded

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FED dreamin'
« Reply #13 on: December 27, 2009 4:39 am »
The cockpit cage I bought from Mark Williams is like the one above and is NHRA legal. You do loose some vintage looks by going "legal". But I wanted to be able to have it inspected and be safe depending what speed we wanted to run.  Check out www.slingshotdragsters.com  they have some good info but their frames are the "ugly" kind.  Also look at www.kingchassis.net  They claim to have a NHRA legal frame with the old time looks. I know if I hadn't already bought my frame I would have looked into one of their frames.
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Offline pinstriper40

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« Reply #14 on: December 27, 2009 4:27 pm »
I like "The 1963" from the King Chassis site.  I agree, the NHRA 18 pt. roll cage looks goofy on a early dragster.  I guess I'm not too concerned about safety, and I'd go for a 3 pt.  They look cooler.
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