Author Topic: Racer J's 28 roadster (Read 156990 times)

racerjohnson · « **Reply #135 on:** December 01, 2008 5:43 pm »

are we on the right post right now? Kinda came out of nowhere, but thats cool. Poor roadster is feeling forgotten, I can feel it.

I like the idea of a dark, dark blue with a creme firewall and creme painted interior, mostly because it "covers up" the corroded cracks at major seams in the car that I can't fix (quarter panel to the filler panel behind the "cockpit," screwed, for example). I'll probably apply it with a roller and sand smooth, to be honest. Stop shaking your head. Some areas on this car are beyond my ability and drive to fix.

I'm definately up to other dark colored suggestions. Not black. Some sort of goofy somewhat questionably good looking old color that looks good faded and/or flat would work, preferably with black wheels. Should look good with olive drab canvas too.

Ryan, if you're talking about my windshield and not the merc, thank you. Eberhama helped me get that done.

sko_ford · « **Reply #136 on:** December 01, 2008 6:26 pm »

sorry ive been kinda random lately i think that green would look good faded but dark blue works too. did you get the suports to the frame(chrome) done or are you taling about the shape

Wowcars · « **Reply #137 on:** December 01, 2008 6:54 pm »

I'm smitten by the '54 Ford Kilarney green. Mmmmmm.

And yeah, I was talking about your w/s.

Wowcars · « **Reply #138 on:** December 01, 2008 6:57 pm »

I'm smitten by the '54 Ford Kilarney green. Mmmmmm.

And yeah, I was talking about your w/s.

racerjohnson · « **Reply #139 on:** December 06, 2008 6:53 am »

I hope when I brace the A pillars it doesn't ruin the effect. Wish I had a roadster cowl, eh?

racerjohnson · « **Reply #140 on:** September 30, 2009 4:38 pm »

Having a mental block with this darn car. Here's the deal: I was trying to build it cheaper and build the car around parts I had available. I also started the car before knowing exactly what I wanted, which was impossible if I'm building the car from parts I had vs. parts needed to complete the vision. I built in some cool ideas and visions I had during the build, which I still like, but over-constrained myself and ended up making many things more complicated than they really needed to be. Familiar with the rolling bones' 31 a roadster? Looks sweet to me at this point.

Need to think on paper (or on screen). Any suggestions?

A few things are bothering me:

1. Rear trailing arms are threatening to hit the frame (T rear spring), front spring mount on the trailing arm is too long (ie. the spring is not long enough)
2. iffy proportions. car looks like a weiner dog. long and skinny, bow in the middle. Need to fatten it up
3. 394 olds is too much. Period.
4. I like cowl steering, but I don't want an ugly, visible bunch of supports under my dash. My feet have to fit somewhere down there too. Oh, and I need a really long steering arm off the box to bend and exit the cowl. The box is completely inside the cowl.
5. Need to weld the windshield frame to something solid. The roll hoop?
6. need a third link in the rear suspension. Floor is really low on this car, no provisions for a tunnel. Don't want the 3rd link to be too visible.
7. need a good way to build a rear subframe so I can bolt the body down to the frame at the rear.

possible solutions:
1. buy 2 different springs that both are the correct length and strength to allow me to build a shorter, stronger mounting point on the front trailing arms and will keep my frame from bottoming out on the rear trailing arms. PROBLEM: this will raise the car in the air front and rear, making the "wiener dog" effect more pronounced.
2. Planned torque tube side pipes directly under the body to help the proportions. "The Man" says I have to have exhaust exit behind the driver anyways. . .

2. install 6.50 or 7.00 tire in the rear
3. ditch and store 394. install olds 324. It might change everything though, the tranny is grazing the crossmember, for example. Banjo rearend gonna hold??
4. pictoral suggestions? Cough up $$$ for a schroeder?
5. weld a flange on the front roll hoop and bolt to frame. Tie it into the fabricated subframe braces I already hid within the existing subframe
6. stop whining and fabricate a floor tunnel. the subframe has been pieced together from 16 pieces anyways, whats a couple more cuts and welds?
7. shut up and build it.

I'm not giving up. Anything I'm not thinking of?

sko_ford · « **Reply #141 on:** September 30, 2009 4:49 pm »

1 move the arms in twards the center 1 to 2 in ches ber side
2 paint it brown and black like a weiner dog
3 there is no such thing as too much(just broken parts)
4 bolt in braceing
5 just fill sith sheetmetal and hafa stiffner up inside the cowl top
6 run it alomg side the drive shaft maybe only one bar(tube)
7 yep shut it and go thats how i did my floor

racerjohnson · « **Reply #142 on:** September 30, 2009 5:10 pm »

1. The engineer in me devised this engine mount crossmember where it doubles as the trailing arm mount. Kept the engine low (too low?) for a short roll moment and allowed me to keep the mounts as close to the centerline of the frame as possible (like what the designers had in mind originally from the factory). The arm mounts are under the frame, really close to the engine already, in danger of kissing frame if I hit a bump in a corner. Might try it though, would like to ditch the heim joints and use tie rod ends.
2. woof
3. The banjo rearend agrees.
4. roger that.
5. sith?
6. I might copy yours
7. will do.

Eyeball · « **Reply #143 on:** September 30, 2009 5:49 pm »

You can Z the trailing arms buy using front wishbones from a 46-48.

31Rodder · « **Reply #144 on:** September 30, 2009 11:17 pm »

6. you could do like I did and make a torque arm like hot rod works sells.

sko_ford · « **Reply #145 on:** October 01, 2009 1:30 am »

you know sith like darth vader or with

sko_ford · « **Reply #146 on:** October 01, 2009 2:59 am »

i meant move them in on the rear end not the pivot point

racerjohnson · « **Reply #147 on:** October 01, 2009 11:00 am »

Quote from: "Eyeball"

You can Z the trailing arms buy using front wishbones from a 46-48.

Youre talking fronts right? the ones with an "S" curve in them? I have them already, I think.

Eyeball · « **Reply #148 on:** October 01, 2009 1:53 pm »

Yea, there is a tech thing on the hamb about it.

pinstriper40 · « **Reply #149 on:** October 01, 2009 4:05 pm »

I've got an extra set of those if you need them pete!