Not since High School have I'd this much trouble w/ 4 inches

[Wowcars]

So as many of you know, I got the 4" lowering blocks from Sko and installed them in the Studebaker, along with fixing the rear end yoke and ujoint that took an early retirement at the Pileup last fall. Got it all in it LOOKS KILLER! So, then I take it for a drive, Damn, for a vibrat-THUNKCLANGCLANGCLANG. So, I pulled it off the road and saw the driveshaft hanging loose from under the car. Hmmm. Thats not right, is it? So walk home and get the old ujoint caps and put everything back together and drive SLOWLY home. Up in the air again. Put new caps back on ujoint and button everything up, must not have had everything tight. Het the road again, there's that vibration agai-THUNKCLANGCLANGCLANG. This time it didn't pull out of the rear, but there was some damage to the joint, baby it home again. Time for another Ujoint. Better get some of those lowering block wedge deals to fix the pinion angle. That should do it. Next day. Go out and install the new ujoint and wedges, back on the ground. Woohoo no vibration, but what is that howling? BACK into the not-so-fair-weather garage. Up in the air, I look at the FRONT yoke of the driveshaft pinned right up against the tailshaft. Huh, doesn't allow for a whole lot of travel there. This sucks. Options: leave it looking good IN the garage, or drive it looking like it did last summer. Well, I gotta drive it again, so pull the lowering blocks out, go on the scavenger hunt looking for the old ublots and nuts scattered about the garage, button it back together, add the gear lube I forgot the last six times I had it in the air. Take it for a drive, VOILA! Fixed! Fifties here I come.

[Eyeball]

What the hell. Were the blocks moving the driveshaft ahead? If so you could make a plate to offset the rear slightly. What a pain in the ass ........ did you check the drive line angle to see how far off you were? It shouldn't have changed very much with a 4" block at least not enough to bread a ujoint.

[Wowcars]

I didn't have a degree wheel but it put the yoke at about 10 degrees I figured. With the wedges it corrected the angle enough to get it into range, but there was binding in the driveshaft yet being up against the tailshaft so tight with the travel of the suspension.

I'm not giving up on it, but it will stay like this thru '50s.

[Eyeball]

You should check that rear. Your drive line should be between 0 and 3 degrees. It looked so damn cool.

[Serious]

im a little worries with my 49, with as much as ive lowered it that im gonna have to shorten the driveshaft again.

[31Rodder]

When i lowered the 55 (2 inch blocks) i had the same issue of the driveshaft almost hitting the tailshaft, like about 1/2 inch travel. . so i would guess that the 4 inch block is what is causing it to hit the tailshaft.
glad to hear its mobile, ya might want to get that drive shaft shortened.

[Wowcars]

Is what really sucks is that last fall when I put the 200 in, I had to get the driveshaft lengthened about 1.5" Would have been about perfect, now.

[sundance]

but if u lower the front won't the original geometry come back??

[Eyeball]

but if u lower the front won't the original geometry come back??

The rear is moving closer to the engine and tranny as it is raised into the wheel well. If you lower the front you are not moving the engine forward in the frame.