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Topics - JakesBackyard

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Off Topic Rants / HOT ROD COMBINE
« on: February 07, 2008 2:35 AM »
Todd....what the heck are you up to now....gonna start a hot rod combine club or something?????

 :roll:  :lol:

Project Reports / Jake's "A"
« on: January 24, 2008 9:14 PM »
I've been going to do this for a while and finally got all the pics together.

It's a '29 Ford Model A Sport Coupe....looks like a cabriolet, but the roof is stationary.

The first pics are Nov. 2004 when I gathered most of the parts together and bolted/screwed it together for a mock-up. Then it rested in a corner of the shop for six months.

General Discussion / Twist-in breather cap?
« on: November 29, 2007 2:24 AM »
Anyone know a source for a chrome, old fashioned, twist-in breather cap that has a PCV tube in it?  All I can find is without tube.  Or else a rubber grommet with PCV hole in it to fit the double slotted hole in valve cover?

Thanks for any info.

Tools / Folding Work Table
« on: November 09, 2007 4:00 PM »
Here's a link to the plans (and a pic) for a folding worktable. It was from the Family Handyman. I made mine 54" wide. So I used more plywood. Works great and gets out of the way when you don't need it.  Or you can use just one side if you want.

Interior / Seat Backrest Condom
« on: November 07, 2007 9:09 PM »
Slipping the new cover on a split back bench seat backrest can be a real pain.  The cover is tight because the padding is a little larger than the cover and is supposed to fill out the cover when complete.  Here's how I do it:

Start by standing the backrest in its upright position.  Many have an outer bracket that will hook under a table top as in the picture.  Then get the cheapest trash bag available (preferably new).  Cheap means thin...the thinner the better.  39 gallon size works best. Have the new cover ready.

General Discussion / MOM, look what we did in school today!
« on: October 18, 2007 9:27 PM »
1st year Auto Body students at NDSCS spend the first 8 weeks learning and developing skills in about 40 different repair tasks.  Donated vehicles from a local salvage dealer and from manufacturers get dented, straightened, welded many different ways, sectioned, sliced and diced and eventually go back to the dealer and are crushed.  

The students are always interested in customizing and want to chop a top.  This year my section had a Ranger PU which presented itself nicely to get whacked.  So without all the usual extensive planning and prep that would be done in a shop chopping a top, the students took out 4 inches and dropped the suspension.  A fun couple of days.  They did learn that preplanning and a lot of forethought prior to grabbing the saws would be important in a real situation.

Here's the before and after....Sorry the pics are not great.

Interior / Pleats vs. Tuck-N-Roll
« on: August 30, 2007 9:47 PM »
Pleats (quilting) and tuck & roll have been used in automotive interiors since the beginning of enclosed interiors.  Not only do they add to the looks, but also keep the material (fabric, vinyl, leather) from becoming full of stretch wrinkles.

Pleats, or actually quilting, is the sewing of the upholstery material to a layer of padding with a backing fabric.  The quilting is usually done in a combination of lines to form a design.  Lines, diamonds, squares, rectangles, etc.  Even free form quilting (although you have to consider the shrinkage) can work. Basically any design you can dream up can work with a little planning.  When complete, the stitching thread shows on the top side of the upholstery material.

Most quilting pleats are done in or 3/4 inch foam backed with muslin or denim.  The density of the foam will determine how well the pleats stand out.  The common ½ inch foam with muslin adhered to the back side found in many stores including MACs is good enough for trim panels.  If upholstering seats, go to a better grade of foam and possibly move to 3/4 inch. This will hold the pleats better on seats.  The cheaper stuff will flatten out in a short period of time.

The common size of straight vertical pleats is 1 inches to 2 inches apart.  The big thing to consider and allow for is the shrinkage that takes place for each sewn pleat.  Allow half the thickness of the foam for each pleat sewn.  So for inch foam allow 1/4 inch extra for each pleat that is sewn.  For 3/4 inch allow about 3/8 for each sew.  Draw out the pleats and sew using as long a stitch as the sewing machine will sew, through the top material, foam, and backing.  Too close of stitching will weaken the material, especially vinyl,  and it will eventually tear on the pleat.

True tuck and roll involved sewing a top material to a backing fabric like denim.  The top material was either cut in strips or folded over face to face and sewn to a backing fabric. After all tucks were sewn, each was stuffed with horse hair or later cotton (straw if you weren't watching in Tijuana) using piping tins.  Two smooth, concave shaped, long tins were filled with the padding.  They were slid down into each sewn sheath and then the tins were pulled, one at a time, leaving the padding in and a  rolled appearance. 

Today, tuck and roll is done by using the former technique for sewing quilted pleats.  Once all the pleats are sewn, lay the material over face to face on the pleat.  Now sew through all the layers about a 1/4 inch in from the edge.  It's a good idea to lock in or tie the ends of each so it does not start to come out from the pressure of the padding.

Again, the big consideration to remember is the shrinkage from all the sewing.  It will now be about 3/4 inch for each tuck.  Pretty common sizes of vertical tuck and roll is ending up about 2 inches to 3 inches wide.  So if you start your figuring of 2" wide quilting, your tuck and roll will end up about 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" when complete.  Any smaller will become difficult to work with.  Another common size for wider seats and full benches would be starting with 3" quilting.  The tuck and roll will end up about 2 3/4 when complete.

I use a denser inch foam and back it with newer headliner fabric.  The headliner fabric has a 1/4 inch of foam bonded to it so the whole thing is now 3/4" and the backing fabric is included.  For both quilting and tuck & roll only glue the foams and backing materials together. Don't glue the top fabric, vinyl, or leather to the foam.  This allows it to shrink and move with wear and tear.

Event Announcements / ?Toppers garage tour?
« on: March 28, 2007 6:54 PM »
Anyone know the time and where the stops are for the Toppers garage tour this weekend?


General Discussion / Automotive Icon passes
« on: March 24, 2007 3:54 AM »
Robert E. Peterson (from the original Peterson Publishing Co.), originator of HOT ROD, MOTOR TREND, ROD & CUSTOM and other titles passed away today after a short battle with the Big C.

Although not always loved by everyone, his drive and vision mean a lot to hot rodding today.


Paint n Primer / Good Pinstriping Video
« on: March 23, 2007 4:14 AM »

Interior / A little UPH Tech. - TRIM PANELS
« on: March 19, 2007 3:47 PM »
Most of you like to do all the work you can when building your cars. So here’s a pic by pic of how I make trim panels for cars.  The basic technique works for making almost any trim panel - doors, qtrs., kick, pkg. tray, trunk, etc.  I even use the clear vinyl for making carpet panels on the floor and seat panels from scratch.

Hang with me...this will take about 8 posts.

Tools / Uses for WD-40
« on: February 06, 2007 8:18 PM »
Many of you know some of these.  I rcvd' this as an email and thought I'd pass it along.  You may see a new use.   :D

WD-40 Uses]


I had a neighbor who had bought a new pickup. I got up very early one Sunday morning and saw that someone had spray painted red all around the sides of this beige truck (for some unknown reason).
I went over, woke him up, and told him the bad news.  He was very upset and was trying to figure out what to do probably nothing until Monday morning, since nothing was open. Another neighbor came out and told him to get his WD-40 and clean it off.  It removed the unwanted paint beautifully and did not harm his paint job that was on the truck.  I'm impressed! WD-40 who knew?

 Water Displacement #40. The product began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile parts. WD-40 was created in 1953 by three technicians at the San Diego Rocket Che mical Company. Its name comes from the project that was to  find a "water displacement" compound. They were successful with the fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Corvair Company bought it in bulk to protect their atlas missile parts.  Ken East (one of the original founders) says there is nothing in WD-40 that would hurt you..

When you read the "shower door" part, try it.  It's the first thing that has ever cleaned that spotty shower door. If yours is plastic, it works just as well as glass.  It's a miracle! Then try it on your stovetop...  Voila! It's now shinier than it's ever been. You'll be amazed.

Here are some of the uses:

1) Protects silver from tarnishing.
2) Removes road tar and grime from cars.
3) Cleans and lubricates guitar strings.
4) Gives floors that 'just-waxed' sheen without making it slippery.
5) Keeps flies off cows.
6) Restores and cleans chalkboards.
7) Removes lipstick stains.
8) Loosens stubborn zippers.
9) Untangles jewelry chains.

10) Removes stains from stainless steel sinks.

11) Removes dirt and grime from the barbecue grill.
12) Keeps ceramic/terra cotta garden pots from oxidizing.
13) Removes tomato stains from clothing.
14) Keeps glass shower doors free of water spots.
15) Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors.
16) Keeps scissors working smoothly.

 17) Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in homes
18) It removes black scuff marks from the kitchen floor! Use WD-40 for those nasty tar and scuff marks on flooring. It doesn't seem to harm the finish and you won't have to scrub nearly as hard to get them off. Just remember to open some windows if you have a lot of marks.
19) Bug guts will eat away the finish on your car if not removed quickly! Use WD-40!
20) Gives a children's play gym slide a shine for a super fast slide.
21) Lubricates gear shift and mower dec k lever for ease of handling on riding mowers.
22) Rids kids rocking chairs and swings of squeaky noises.
23) Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them easier to open.
24) Spraying an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and close.
25) Restores and cleans padded leather dashboards in vehicles, as well as vinyl bumpers.
26) Restores and cleans roof racks on vehicles.
27) Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans.
28) Lubricates wheel sprockets on tricycles, wagons, and bicycles for easy handling.
29) Lubricates fan belts on washers and dryers and keeps them running smoothly.
30) Keeps rust from forming on saws and saw blades, and other tools.
31) Removes splattered grease on stove.
32) Keeps bathroom mirror from fogging.
33) Lubricates prosthetic limbs.
34) Keeps pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell).
35) Removes all traces of duct tape.
36) Folks even spray it on their arms, hands, and knees to relieve arthritis pain.
37) Florida 's favorite use is: "cleans and removes love bugs from grills and bumpers."
38) The favorite use in the state of New York WD-40 protects the Statue of Liberty from the elements.
39) WD-40 attracts fish. Spray a LITTLE on live bait or lures and you will be catching the big one in no   time. Also, it's a lot cheaper than the chemical attractants that are made for just that purpose. Keep in mind though, using some chemical laced baits or lures for fishing are not allowed in some states.
40) Use it for fire ant bites. It takes the sting away immediately and stops the itch.
41) WD-40 is great for removing crayon from walls. Spray on the mark and wipe with a clean rag.
42) Also, if you've discovered that your teenage daughter has washed and dried a tube of lipstick with a load of laundry, saturate the lipstick spots with WD-40 and re-wash. Presto! Lipstick is gone!
43) If you sprayed WD-40 on the distributor cap, it would displace the moisture and allow the car to start.

P. S. The basic ingredient is FISH OIL.
P. P. S.   I keep a can of WD-40 in my kitchen cabinet over the stove.  
It is good for oven burns or any other type of burn.  It takes the burned feeling away and heals with NO scarring

For Sale / Model A Xmember and Frame Horns
« on: December 06, 2006 11:14 PM »
So since I made the body cart from an A frame, I have L&R 40" horns and a nice (no cracks) rear Xmember. The left rail had been bent at one time and is a little twisted, but the horn is nice.  The right one is good.  Best offer or trade for something interesting.

General Discussion / Dec. Tech. - Model A body cart.
« on: December 06, 2006 10:01 PM »
I've been building a Model A body cart to mount my Sport Coupe body on while I do the panels and body work.  Just finished welding it together. I cut off an A frame just in front of the front cowl mounting holes and took out the rear crossmember, welding in a tube to accept any A body. I'm not sure if the casters are strong enough, but the price was An A body isn't very heavy anyway. Hopefully this will make working on the body and rolling it out of the way a little easier.

For Sale / FREE 1963 Galaxie Parts!
« on: November 15, 2006 8:48 PM »
Sold the Galaxie, cleaning the attic. You pick up within a couple weeks. Otherwise they go to the dump.

L & R Fenders and whl. hsgs., no rust through, some surface.
H/L buckets, cowl panel, behind H/L fillers, 2 Tail lamps w/lenses, hood latch w/emblem, L&R kick panels.

Everything in the picture.

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