January 23, 2018 8:10 PM

Author Topic: some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)  (Read 12022 times)

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Offline Eyeball

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #15 on: August 14, 2007 5:09 PM »
Quote from: "overspray"
Quote from: "JakesBackyard"
Good job Reed.....

Now mix up some cricket spray and load it into that model 7 and give em hell.   :lol:


How'd you know I had been invaded by crickets??



hahah I was watching the vids the other night and Kathy thought that the cricket was in the house.
take a look at THE FORDSON HOUSE web site


"i did, i'm building a car, not a tractor "

 SILENT RICK HAMB

Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #16 on: August 14, 2007 5:25 PM »
Quote from: "Eyeball"
I used a DA on the bare steel and filler where needed. Then a Utech wash prime (yellowish). Then the 2K grey. A few thick coats them blocked then more coats block...... I called and ordered more 2k and 200 color this AM and had them set me up  with black tinted sealer which I think he said is 460. I will pick it up at lunch and verify the number.


Sounds good.  Keep an "eyeball" on the temperature you are going to be spraying at.  Make sure to have some fast and medium reducer to get a good blend for the temp and your spraying technique.  Remember you have 7 days on the sealer, so if something doesn't look good you have time to stop and redo or make adjustments.  Also the black sealer will tell you how good the body/bodywork is.  Don't be afaid to stop and repair something.  It's easier at this stage than later.

Worse case scenario:  The paint job looks like shit---so we just call it an expensive primer practise session.  No big deal. Sand it down and respray the color again.  Actually, some of the best jobs are done this way.  Back in the "day", lacquer was done like this all the time.


I might get snagged to go on the train shortly.  I'll be back.

Do you want a spraygun or what have got avaliable?

Offline JakesBackyard

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #17 on: August 14, 2007 5:26 PM »
How'd you know I had been invaded by crickets??

Go back and listen to the first video.....You got lots of crickets!!
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Offline Eyeball

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #18 on: August 14, 2007 5:51 PM »
Quote from: "overspray"
Quote from: "Eyeball"
I used a DA on the bare steel and filler where needed. Then a Utech wash prime (yellowish). Then the 2K grey. A few thick coats them blocked then more coats block...... I called and ordered more 2k and 200 color this AM and had them set me up  with black tinted sealer which I think he said is 460. I will pick it up at lunch and verify the number.


Do you want a spraygun or what have got avaliable?


I will let you know after this weekend. Thanks.
take a look at THE FORDSON HOUSE web site


"i did, i'm building a car, not a tractor "

 SILENT RICK HAMB

Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #19 on: August 14, 2007 6:15 PM »
Where are you spraying this project?

Offline Eyeball

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #20 on: August 14, 2007 8:02 PM »
Ummmm not sure.... it may be in my garage.
take a look at THE FORDSON HOUSE web site


"i did, i'm building a car, not a tractor "

 SILENT RICK HAMB

Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #21 on: August 14, 2007 9:20 PM »
Garages work.  Sweep and blow out the dust on walls, floor and ceiling a day or so in advance.  Then do it again before you paint and let everything settle down.  If you need to use bug spray (Raid house and garden) do that before you final wipe the body down.  Let the neighbors know so they don't call the cops or fire dept because of the vapor cloud or strong smell of the urethane.  It can get ugly in some municipalities if you paint at home in a residential district.  If there isn't much wind when you are spraying, set up a box fan outside to help dissipate the exiting fumes.  Refer to the Garage painting 101 post on the HAMB for ideas on setting up the fan system and hanging parts.  I guessing you have the doors and decklid off.  The deck lid is a good place to start spraying and get the mix/reduction dialed in.  It's the easiest to do over if you screw up.  Blow air into the room and suck a little less out so there is a positive pressure.  Keep the air moving well after the last coat, then after an hour or two just a small fan blowing over the body to keep the solvents going away.

Remember:

Tack cloth-used ones are best

Tweezer with needle sharp points

Wipe towels as lint free as possible

Blow gun

Wet or dry sandpaper for nibs in the sealer

Paint strainers

Good mixing container

Mixing stick

Watch or clock

Good lighting

Drain the compressor--the day before and again the day of painting

Moisture separator at least 20 feet from the compressor

Set up a solid, sturdy vertical piece of masking paper to test the spray pattern on.

Do a walk thru (actually pretend you are swinging the gun) the way you are going to spray (ballet) to see if the area is clear for swinging the gun, the layout of the air hose and where you are going to start and end.  Try not to run your strokes exactly in the same place for each coat.  Vary the starting and stopping point just a foot or so different so you dont get a buildup of material on the same start and stop area.  Remember in the spraying video to use the diagonal wetting strokes if you come back over the same area.

Most urethanes are ready for the next coat when the paint film is "finger slick".  That means you can ever so lightly run your finger over the paint without it smudging or smearing (about 5 to 15 minutes depending on reduction, temperature, air flow, and coat thickness).  Do this test on your spray testing panel (masking paper) or some masking paper on the car.

Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #22 on: August 21, 2007 6:40 PM »



To Check if the STATIC ELECTRICITY CHARGE has dissapated--hold your bare forearm close to the car body, without touching it.  If the hair on your arm tingles there is still STATIC in the car body.

Fiberglass and Plastic cars and parts can really build up a static charge and the charge takes much longer to disapate.

Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #23 on: August 21, 2007 6:54 PM »
Spraying techniques and tips from the "KING".

"You can spray all you want--but don't spray on my Blue "Suede" Shoes."





Offline Eyeball

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #24 on: August 21, 2007 8:07 PM »
oh man...............the STATIC stuff was new to me. But I don't think I was paying attention to the the other one. Watching KING! was to distracting. :) I'll have to watch it again.

I can't get a pattern that big out of my Harbor Freight gun. I may go pick a new one up. I tried to bring my two Devilbis guns back to life but they both just pulse when you spray and I have tried everything to fix them.
take a look at THE FORDSON HOUSE web site


"i did, i'm building a car, not a tractor "

 SILENT RICK HAMB

Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #25 on: August 21, 2007 8:16 PM »
And you all thought he was DEAD!  

The "pulsing"  is usually caused by the packing around the fluid rod shrinking up and letting air suck by it.  It will most likely need a gasket/packing kit and a good cleaning/soaking.

The old Sharpe 775 is still available, at your disposal.  It worked very well on the "NOW MORE FAMOUS THAN EVER"   HUBER  "TRACK ROADSTER".

I don't think exchanging the HF guns will improve the performance.  The 1.4mm tip is going to limit the size of the pattern based on the volume of fluid it can discharge.


Didn't you ever shuffle your feet across the living room carpet--then sneak over to the "kitty" and touch it's nose? :twisted:

Offline Eyeball

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #26 on: August 21, 2007 8:32 PM »
Quote from: "overspray"
The "pulsing"  is usually caused by the packing around the fluid rod shrinking up and letting air suck by it.  It will most likely need a gasket/packing kit and a good cleaning/soaking.



I tried a new packing, if you are talking about the one on the needle just in front of the trigger. I may see if I can get a "kit" for it, not that I know how it should go together.
take a look at THE FORDSON HOUSE web site


"i did, i'm building a car, not a tractor "

 SILENT RICK HAMB

Offline JakesBackyard

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #27 on: August 21, 2007 8:48 PM »
:lol:

It just don't get any better than that.....

Elvis and the Crickets all in one video.....

And painting no less....

I love it.
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Offline JakesBackyard

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #28 on: August 21, 2007 8:55 PM »
Tim...

The spurting is almost always an air leak.  On your old gun the body is two pcs. that screw together.  Take out the top knob (pattern adj.), look down inside and there is probably an allen fitting that you may be able to tighten to get rid of the air leak.
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Offline Tom

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #29 on: August 21, 2007 9:26 PM »
Quote from: "overspray"
.The old Sharpe 775 is still available, at your disposal.  It worked very well on the "NOW MORE FAMOUS THAN EVER"   HUBER  "TRACK ROADSTER".


If you use this gun make sure you have lots of air movin' to get rid of the over spray. It does a good job of keeping the orange peel to a minimum but it put's out some fog.

I have relied heavily on Reed for advice and help when I got to paint. He's always more than willing to lend a hand!!
"A rat rod is a hot rod with poor workmanship". Roger S.