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Author Topic: some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)  (Read 25040 times)

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Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« on: August 10, 2007 11:09 PM »
Here's some painting tips I thought about.  I do have a lot more information floating around in my head, but this is a good start and should bring up some questions that I can maybe answer, also.

Since you are doing a single stage urethane, I kind of taylored these little videos to that type of material.


Offline overspray

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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2007 11:25 PM »
Getting the spraygun set with a good mix of properly reduced color is essential.  If you get the first coats to wet or too dry it's really hard to recover a nice smooth job.  



Offline overspray

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« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2007 11:35 PM »
Practise spraying a little on a test panel and see how the material flashes and wets out before you spray the body.  Get the gun settings dialed in.  For someone that doesn't paint a lot be careful of the speed of your passes.  Too fast=dry spray.  Too slow=flow checks (runs).  If you over reduce the product a little it is more forgiving as far as dry spray but you should plan 1 extra coat to keep the film thickness up to maintain the durability of the finished product and it's safer for sanding out some slight imperfections.



Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2007 11:47 PM »
Here I'm promoting over reducing slightly to end up with a flatter layout of material.  This is the recipie that I used on Tom's "T".  With black single stage urethane this should work well.  

I don't like HVLP guns a whole lot.  They need to be used with about 1 grade or so slower reducer than you would with a regular gun.  If you aren't used to them it can get ugly fast.  I like spraying single stage urethane wet and with a little more pressure in order to break the material up into smaller droplets and get a flatter finnish especially on vertical panels.



Offline sko_ford

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2007 5:03 AM »
wow
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Offline racerjohnson

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2007 5:10 PM »
Holy cow, that was awesome. Thank you. Makes me want to go paint something.
The problem with having an artistic eye is that you always end up making more work for yourself. -Cleatus on the HAMB

Offline 31Rodder

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2007 5:49 PM »
you should start your own video series.

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2007 3:11 AM »
they are easier to understand than the ones i saw in tech school
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Offline Eyeball

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2007 5:57 PM »
WOW great info there. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to put that together. Is the sealer I need another product or can the primer be cut down to be used as a sealer?
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Offline flatheaded

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2007 8:24 PM »
Super job! Good info. Like they said you should put out your own videos.  I know I learned a few things. Makes me a little more confident to tackle the next job.  I know I'm gonna try the "eye" thing as soon as I get home. Keep up the good work!
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Offline JakesBackyard

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2007 1:45 AM »
Good job Reed.....

Now mix up some cricket spray and load it into that model 7 and give em hell.   :lol:
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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2007 2:37 AM »
That's the best damn ballet I've ever seen!

Offline overspray

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« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2007 4:32 PM »
Quote from: "Eyeball"
WOW great info there. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to put that together. Is the sealer I need another product or can the primer be cut down to be used as a sealer?


Well, first I should know exactly what you have done from the bare metal to where you are now and exactly what brand and type of materials you have used and in what order.



I do have my "handy dandy" U-Tech technical reference manual, which lists 2 types of sealers to go under the 200 series urethane, epoxy and tintable urethane.  The Tech book doesn't show the urethane primer surfacer to be used as a sealer although, I know of other primers that can be used this way.

360 or 380 series epoxy primer sealers/ both available in black

360 series with non induction (E375) hardner looks like a good choice at .75 mils per coat and can be recoated non sanding up to 48 hours with U-tech paint.

460 urethane tintable sealer (tinted with black mixing color 3 parts sealer to 1 part color)  then mixed with 460 sealer activator 4 parts sealer (tinted) to 1 part activator.  This can be topcoated with the paint for up to 7 days without sanding.  Same film thickness (.75 mils) per coat.

Or if you have some PPG DP epoxy in black, a shot of that will work as a wet on wet sealer.  That's what we used on Tom's car.  There are some other products that will work also.

Give me a complete rundown on what you have done and what you have available.


The sealer can be "nib" sanded after it drys for an hour or so, before you paint.  You have to do this very carefully.  After sealing,  you should look over the whole car very closely.  You will probably find little "nibs" of dust particles protruding up from the smoothe surface of the sealer.  Use fine (600# or finer) wet or dry sand paper that has been soaking in water to help soften it, to ever so lightly sand them out.  The sealer film will still be soft and you have to use very light pressure to avoid tearing the sealer film.  Also, sand with the paper curled up in your hand to keep the edge of the paper from gouging the sealer.  Only sand right on the "nib" very softly just enough to remove it or flatten it (one finger sanding).  Just do the ones that stand up about 1 mil or so.  Very, very tiny ones will cover with the color coats, so don't bother with them.


Remember, you don't need a sealer over a good quality urethane primer surfacer that is sanded and cleaned.  You can actually use the first coat of color as a "flash" coat.  With the black urethane it works very well.  Mix a very thin coat (over reduced with mostly fast reducer) and spray it on even and thin. Let it dry about 15 minutes and continue painting with regular mixed color.  This is just another option.

Looks like it's time for another video.  Get the info on the materials and products posted here.

I also need to know exactly what you want the finished product to look like.  If you want that "traditional" restoration look, then the finish on Tom's T is pretty close (actually too nice).  Like on Tom's car, you will have the option to color sand the black and buff it, or color sand the black and clear it, or even put a couple coats of clear on after the black is applied and still have the color sand and buff option.  

In the late 40's or early 50's, the "traditional look" would actually have been an alkyd enamel or a nitrocelulose lacquer paint job that wouldn't even come close to the gloss of todays materials.

Offline overspray

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2007 4:35 PM »
Quote from: "JakesBackyard"
Good job Reed.....

Now mix up some cricket spray and load it into that model 7 and give em hell.   :lol:


How'd you know I had been invaded by crickets??

I just bought the Binks 7 for $12.00 at an auction.  I had gotten rid of all the ones I used to have.  It must be a nostalgia thing.

Offline Eyeball

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some painting tips for Eyeball (overspray 101)
« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2007 5:07 PM »
I used a DA on the bare steel and filler where needed. Then a Utech wash prime (yellowish). Then the 2K grey. A few thick coats them blocked then more coats block...... I called and ordered more 2k and 200 color this AM and had them set me up  with black tinted sealer which I think he said is 460. I will pick it up at lunch and verify the number.
soaken wet shoes and winkled fingers...
hours and hours
inch at a time...

henryj1951 HAMB