Suedes Car Club
General => Project Reports => Topic started by: racerjohnson on December 02, 2006 8:03 AM
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Step 1
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"what year were those, eyeball"
The axle and bones should be 46 or 47. The 48 axle looks a little different.
Make sure you order dropped steering arms too. Assemble the front end and then you will know how much drop you will need to get the draglink under the bones. I think the tie rod holes are tappered from both sides so you can mount the drag link on top or under the arms if you need more clearance.
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If I recall it was parked with the Salt Lake boys (Throttlers CC).
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Notice how the tudor cowl and door is approximately 1 inch taller from the beltline to the bottom of the body than the roadster is. It's more apparent when you see how the subframes match up. It would also be more apparent if half of my door wasn't rusted away!! You may be asking yourself how I line up everything and make sure my twisted body is square when I'm missing so much sheetmetal. That's a good question. Hell if I know. It's pretty close.
I braced the heck out of the body, welding everything together, then cut the inner halves of the subframe away for the frame to go. I also straightened that driver's side frame rail in front. Twice. After cutting notches and welding them, it shrunk a little more than I predicted so it was bowed the opposite way. Damn. Cut a couple more lines with the cutoff wheel and the second time worked out better.
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I also finally worked up the balls to try to install my repair sleeves on my axle tubes. I HATE fitting interference fit parts together with heat. I always get the piston pin in 3/4 of the way on at least one piston on press fit rods. These sleeves are .002 interference fit, but the damn sleeves were a bit out of round. Heated the first one nicely, and it dropped right on. SWEET!! Heated the second one up nicely, dropped half way on. Shit. Wood block and BFH solved it. I'll have an assembled rearend in no time now. Does anybody have a HUGE impact gun? the pinion nut on my open drive center section doesn't want to come off. Thats all for now.
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"Does anybody have a HUGE impact gun? the pinion nut on my open drive center section doesn't want to come off."
someone once said you can move the world with a big enough lever. breaker bar + 6' of pipe = loose nut :)
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I'm kind of a one-man-band so I don't have a good way to hold the pinion while i pry with Bertha, my favorite 6' pipe.
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. Does anybody have a HUGE impact gun? the pinion nut on my open drive center section doesn't want to come off. Thats all for now.
Sorry Pete, we live to far apart. But please keep us posted, I like your writing style. You got a sense of humor :) .
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Well, I'm excited with the last couple days worth of work. I now have a front frame stub with an engine sitting in it on it's own suspension. I built my spring mounts for the trailing arms to mount the spring so i could see at what height the front frame rails would sit. It worked out like this:
I wanted the frame to sit 2.5 (give or take, c'mon now) degrees nose high and the motor to be doing the same. The motor actually wants 5 degrees nose high for the carburetor to sit level, but to hell with that. It looks goofy. It just works out that setting my axle to 10 degrees positive caster and setting the frame right on top of my heim joints with the 2.5 degree frame setting gives me about 2 1/2 to 3 inches of front axle to frame clearance. Nice. Does that seem like exessive clearence?? I'm guessing here. That olds motor is heavy.
A long time ago, I measured how much the spring squatted under the weight of that beautiful olds. Squatted 2 3/4". I decided I wanted 2" of suspension clearance. Why? i dunno, I usually end up driving my cars hard and beating the crap out of them. So i put 5" worth of blocks between the axle and frame, angled the frame 2.5 degrees nose high, installed the spring, leveled the shackles parallel to the ground, centered the frame between the spindles, and made some shackle mounts for the trailing arms, welded them to the trailing arms, and mounted the spring. That process looks so easy after I typed that, why did it take 12 hours to accomplish?
As you can see, my rear transmission/motor mount will double as the bones mounting points. This moves the trailing arms closer together by about 2 inches at the heims vs. putting them directly under the frame (actually it's 4 inches because i moved the frame rails towards each other an inch on each side, so the rails are basically parallel). I'm trying to overcome the negative side effects of this splitting wishbones business. The spring and shackles being the only transverse locating device is weird, but screw putting a panhard bar in (for now). I also didn't like the pivot of the trailing arms directly under the frame nor on the outside of the frame rails because with that '47 (?) axle having such a wide bones perches at the axle, I've been told the tires will rub the trailing arms when turning. Looked like it too. So i've moved the heims as close together as possible while maintaining a sane amount of caster.
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None of this spring mount business came without a cost though. I may have to move the tie rod out in front of the axle. My spring sits in between the axle and the tie rod. This isn't a problem until I turn the steering wheel and the tie rod moves forward and will whack the spring and shackle. damn. I'll figure something out. A tie rod doesn't have to be straight does it? Overall the spring shackle mounts on the trailing arms were what kept me up nights. Just took a few hours of cutting, grinding, fitting, grinding, fitting, grinding, measuring, grinding, fitting, grinding. . . but they turned out all right so I'm pleased. I wish someone who has done this before would come over and point out something I haven't thought of cuz i'm sure there's something.
My fan blade swings in the channel in the front crossmember. It allowed me to lower the motor in the chassis an inch or two. I like it. Until my rubber motor mounts wear out and I hit the brakes hard.
Now that all this front stub business is tack welded together, I can weld some frame rails to the front stub. I am planning on 2-3 degrees of rake for the rest of the car (ass high). I like the look of all of it. I've noticed there is no one "traditional" stance. It'll have a little rake to it and sit relatively high. The rear end is being bolted together Friday with the spring in front of the axle.
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don't be jealous of my sexy motor mount. Shine would be jealous.
By the way, are all of these damned old cars so twisted and bent? My license plate is going to say "FUDGED" cuz the whole damn car is one big "add a little here, fudge a little there" type measuring. Not one piece of metal on the car is straight, nothing is parallel, nothing is square, and it would take weeks to straighten everything. Is 1/8" tolerence normal on most parts of these things? I'll try to locate the axle side to side and 2 out of three measurements say its centered, but one will say it isn't. And it isn't. 1/4 inch off to one side. Is that going to be a big deal?
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By the way, are all of these damned old cars so twisted and bent? . Is 1/8" tolerence normal on most parts of these things?
Yes!!!
If you get with in an 1/8 of a inch you should be fine.
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with rearend
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she startin to look like a hot rod
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Wow that thing is mint.
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wait 'till everyone sees the quarter panel patch....hot rod engineering at it's best!
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ya, remember that nasty tear on the back of my roadster? it was f'd up. so we went searching my parking lot for sheetmetal. Anybody remember all those "A" fenders I had? if you cut out a part of the drivers side apron, turns out that little armpit that is surrounded by side apron, runningboard and fender makes the perfect patch panel for my rear quarter when flipped upside down and backwards. thanks to pinstriper and the beatles for teaching me some metalworking. turned out nice. better than we could have imagined. pics soon
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pics of the aformentioned patch.
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not bad i'd say you got it to do what you wanted it to do.
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thanks sko, we'll see how it looks when its done.
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Lookin good...keep it up!
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suckn' gas and hauln' ass!
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purdy........you need a yblock.
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Or two!
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I might be looking for a Y-block if the price is right. Actually would only need a good block (standard if possible), rods, heads, good crank (standard if possible) oil pan and flywheel. Or maybe a complete runner ( good condition?) Need one for my F-100. Don't need it right now but since it was brought up.....
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Let's see a pic.....and did you sell the Yblock intake?
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Nothing like a good ol 4 barrel carb.
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The local Swedes chapter met on wednesday night (boris, pinstriper, myself). My vote for our loose organization was "Norwegian Mafia," but in the end we decided tongue in cheek satire was more appropriate than ethnic pride. Pinstriper modified my dash and made an insert from scratch, I mounted my rear bones to the xmember which was installed in the frame, and boris didn't build me a decklid, but provided motivation by staring at my car in disbelief all night long. Apparently my car body is what they call "rough". Who knew?
The Hamm's flowed like honey and the menthol Swisher Sweets competed with the rust and silica abrasive dust to shorten our lives as quickly as possible. And the conversations. . . . truly intellectual. In the end, we were a little dumber and two steps closer to making the yet unnamed model A ready for the road.
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CHEERS!
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this is the only thing i accomplished.
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That's some funny shit racer!! :lol:
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:lol: In keeping with "Norm's (Cheers) Buffalo Theory" - you guys "done good".
Norm's "Buffalo Theory"
A herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo, and when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole is maintained or even improved by the regular culling of the weakest members.
In much the same way, the human brain can operate only as fast as the slowest brain cells through which the electrical signals pass. Recent epidemiological studies have shown that while excessive intake of alcohol kills off brain cells, it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first.
Thus, regular consumption of beer, wine etc., helps eliminate the weaker cells, constantly making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. The result of this in-depth study verifies and validates the causal link between all-weekend parties and job related performance. It also explains why, after a few short years of leaving a university and getting married, most professionals cannot keep up with the performance of the new graduates. Only those few that stick to the strict regimen of voracious alcoholic consumption can maintain the intellectual levels that they achieve during their college years.
So, this is a call to arms. As our country is losing its technological edge, we cannot shudder in our homes. Get back into the bars. Quaff that pint. Your company and country need you to be at your peak, and you shouldn't deny yourself the career that you could have. Take life by the bottle and be all that you can be. Forward this to all of your friends, acquaintances and co-workers that may be in danger of losing their edge.
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NEW words to live by for me. :)
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All in a hard day's work. Not only are the swedes gentlemenly fellows, but we're also handy with air tools and a welder.
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"Beer is good, beer is good, beer is good... Let's go drink some beeeeeer!" It acually helps me be productive when I work late!
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Will the 324 stuff interchange with your Ogre motor?
I still insist you need a stick / 9"
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177890&highlight=324+Olds
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Yes, a 324 motor would interchange and I'd prefer one, but sticks are a bitch to find for those as far as I've gathered
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um, wait I'm not sure if the bellhousing cast to the block (like a long bell hemi) like I have will work with that. try to find a transmission!
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Roadster is already cursed. I pushed it outside so i could pull my fiancee's buick in to do a brake job. I leave for 15 minutes to go get the rotors turned, come back and see that one of the owners of my building backed into the side of my roadster with the other owners 1250 mile brand new ford pickup. The body is just sitting on the frame, and the cowl was the only part of the body straddling the frame rails, so when he backed into the side of it, the body moved and the cowl didn't. The cowl of my car is now crooked. Diamonded, if you will. Spent hours straightening the pile of shit and it lasts 15 minutes outside before getting hit. And, he had just been checking it out 5 minutes prior and forgot about it. Dammit!
But it looked sweet outside before that! You know that feeling you get when you roll your car outside for the first time?
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May Thor the God of Thunder send his wrath down upon that F250!! :twisted:
Odin be praised :lol: !!
I rolled this back into shape with a come-a-long, 4 ton porta-power, and a couple pieces of 2X4. Looked pretty good after about 15 minutes.
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Man, seems like EVERYBODY is having bad luck lately. I can't seem to find a good motor for the Stude, either.
That sucks man, sorry to hear it.
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Oh shit that sux......
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if that happens to my car I'm going to take up action figure painting. nobody fucks with another man's action figures.
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Not too much new, just working on the steering and the radiator mount lately. Picking at it half hour at a time. Got insurance money from the bender though. The insurance adjuster is the guy that had that red 64 corvette drag car with the long fiberglass body at the toppers show a couple years ago. John was his name. Really wasn't much damage, but he said he'd throw me some milk money. Works for me.
Any constructive criticism on the stance/rake?
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fixed the joint where I mated the frame to my rect. tube. Looks much better. Then i welded the tabs for the bones to the tranny mount. Need to fix that ugly tranny mount though.
I like the steering arm, but it may be kinda ghetto.
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hey mrdr3esq i dont think it looks as broken as you were worried about. nice stance woth a good rake it looks like sheell fly
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front shocks are 37 chev rear shocks with links. I cut the model A shock nubs off, removed the ball socket and welded them to my axle. Now if anybody know's where to find a 37 chev shock rebuild kit or someone who can rebuild them I'd be tickled.
Oh, I build a radiator mount too and bolted the grille shell on finally. The poor grill shell has fallen off the car flat on its face at least a dozen times, but no more.
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I think the shocks you have a Ford. If not they look the same. We used the same ones for the front of CJ's T.
Will it be ready for this weekend?
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it could be ready. . . if . . . we had a thrash party! any takers? how much beer and pizza will i need to buy?
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I'd be up for it sat. night after the drags....lots fo pizza....I'm going to be really hungry!
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ya, and bring your time machine so we can have it done for this weekend silly.
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so let's work on it tomorrow (thurs) night from 4 until whenever...I don't think I work friday at all....
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I had an entire weekend to myself last weekend, so I got something accomplished. I made a cardboard template for the floorboard in front, started mounting my rollbars, fabricated some headlight mounts that I believe were originally part of a model A headlight bar, and fabbed some sort of grille. The wire mesh is held to the grille shell with some clothes hangers bent a certain way. It may work. I also ran the transmission cooler line and front brake lines. The throttle butterflies FINALLY (after 2 weeks) broke loose, so I can dive into those carbs and get the olds fired asap. The good Lord knows I needed a weekend like this. . . . hope it makes the pileup.
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wow....it is really starting to take shape.....nice thrash
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do any state troopers out there know if I need a windshield to be street legal, or can I just wear goggles like a motorcycle operator? thanx
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I hope you all don't get sick of looking at the same pictures over and over. And for all of you requesting smaller sized pics, here ya go!! I forget that everybody doesn't have whatever type of connection that I have.
I raised the body up a bit on the chassis. I think it's going to stay here.
Pinstriper cut the windshield posts off (for some reason i wasn't ready to do it, so I'm glad he did), then I trimmed and narrowed that dash lookin' piece down and welded it flush. We may use that '38 ford windshield to do something funky, but in the mean time, this looks a bit lakes roasterish. I was lookin on www.ahrf.com and loved the rear wheelwell covers i saw on someones A roadster. Smoothed it out a bit. We'll see about that. Since my steering arm is in the way, might as well build some lake pipes. Might as well make a belly pan at that point. We'll just start with getting it running and driving, how bout that?
Next task is to finish the subframe so I can have the body Acually bolted to the frame. What a concept. A brake pedal might be handy too. Any constructive critisism (someone wants me to raise the motor) would be appreciated.
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question: does your pitman arm have room to move?
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answer: yes, barely. That'd one reason why the front of the body got lifted an inch. Should work in full bump fully turned. I got the whole "pitman arm down there" idea from that cherry red hemi powered roadster that was in one of the more recent Rodders Journal's. Love the functional look.
I'm entertaining ideas of trying to move the steering box about a foot and a half forward. There was a reason i didn't go that route, but i forgot. The starter being on the left side is one of them. . . narrowing the frame rails didn't help either.
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I just noticed that youre atTrandem's place. Are you sharin a garage with Chuck?
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no, i have the little shop next to where chuck used to have his stuff. One guy rented out the whole end of the building and Pinstriper lives in the little shop. He lets me keep my crap there. Chuck is trying to find a place for 'da lincoln and his ford motors (which are sitting outside right now) so if someone wants a ford 400 or 460 w/ tranny, shout a holla dog.
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I think I know the guy who is renting the whole end. I was supposed to get into his old garage with a buddy but the owner decided to try and sell the place with the garage after he moved his stuff out.
The A is lookin nice. Hope you get it finished by Pileup.
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I would need serious help to get it running by pileup, like a miracle would have to occur. I thought it'd be a good idea to accept a full-time position at the Moorhead armory while I'm a full-time college student.
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rad and scrounge what ever ya can but i dont think i needed to tell you that
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Eyeball said he invented some decision-maker device for you pete..I think you should try it.
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Was it a quarter?
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Is that that small round....yeah, I think that's what you said it was. Brilliant!
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I think I read an article about it in a 1961 issue of Car Craft.
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I will add that if the owner of aforementioned hemi does not pick it up in 3 months time it is going to get repo'ed. Yes, and if RacerJ would read his messages or answer his phone or check his email he might have a decklid for that beautimous roadster. Anyways.....Thrash weekend!
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Friday and Saturday:
I started the rebuilding of my subframe tying the tudor sedan cowl to the roadster rear. The drivers side is basically complete, but hell if I can find the passenger side subframe out of the tudor?!?! damn! We put pinstripers coupe body on my frame that was stretched for my body and it looked gay as AIDS, so we switched my body back on.
Saturday and Sunday:
After flipping a coin, I decided to help pinstriper on the wildly successful A coupe chop. Not bad for a couple rookies and a prettyboy. So, does this mean I can be a hot rodder now? I honestly haven't touched a race car in approximately 5 years. I stopped shaking like 3 years ago.
I keep getting silently chastised by many non-norweigians who think my steering box needs to be moved. I'll let it go forward, not up. I say if you want my steering box moved, get your asses over to the pinstriperjohnson shop and help me move it. Sunday. I'll hang my pedals, ok? Beer is on me. Bring the koolsville daddy-o's.
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I'll be here I guess. STUDY BREAK!
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The mentioned owner apologizes profusely. I'm stuck in Rochester without internet. This summer I dislocated my shoulder for the third time, then was accused of havin tuburc, now goin in for surgery. I'll hopefully be back in school and back in Fargo as soon as I'm off pain meds. Sorry J, but I haven't been able to make decisions for the last few montchs, damn docs have been making them for me. I'll be up as soon as I can, home really sucks.
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Aw, no hemi for pinstriper
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So, I changed the steering. Just kidding :D .
I know I should be working on other more important things like steering and brakes and stuff but how's this windshield work? now if we can just build it. Pinstriper wants a shot at it so I commissioned him, meaning I told him I'd do anything to get him to stop begging.
Do any people here know laws on thickness and type of glass for a windscreen? I need to know so I can go buy some plexiglass for a pattern.
Oh, and after this picture, I lowered the grille shell cuz it just ain't hip, man. Exhaust pipes are coming SOON!
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holy giant pictures batman
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Windshields need to be made from laminated safety glass. Technically it is supposed to be certified AS-1, meaning it is distortion free, but I've never seen any one check the AS-1 part. Laminated safety glass is about 1/4 inch thick. You know it is laminated by looking at the raw edge and seeing the plastic layer sandwiched between two layers of glass. NSRA inspections check it by putting the end of their pen up to it and seeing the reflection back. That only happens with laminated glass.
I'd just make your patterns with cardboard or upholstery panel board. Plexiglass is more expensive than glass and hard to cut and trim.
Your roadster is really taking shape.
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I like/love the stance. The asphalt scraping trend has gone on for far too long.
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I really gotta get those pics of the windshield frame up...
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. . . and the pipes too
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Finished some exhaust a few days ago. A friend of mine torched the exhaust flanges out on a torch table, i then did a bit of grinding and drilling (including removing a stud in the head that was broken off flush before heli-coiling) in order to bolt them on. By the way, a little known fact about me is that I love helicoiling stuff. I then hammered and fitted and hammered and fitted the ends of the pipe to fit the flanges. Did a bit of welding, and smiled. It was one of the more relaxing days on this project.
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The other night I cleaned up the intake and the cylinder head and bolted my intake on (a little bit every night, right eyeball?), got the carbs bolted on after modifying carb gaskets, and figured out some brass fittings that will work for the initial fire up. It will run before I do anything else on the car.
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what you doing to quiet the pipes???
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i dont think he is going to do any thing
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i dont think he is going to do any thing
I guess he doesn't plan on driving it too much.
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It'll be loud. I think he's going to put some baffles in it eventually...but I don't know if he's going to do the washer method or go another route.
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maybee he could go to National Muffler warehouse and they have a glasspack factory where they make muffler cores, if they can go small enough to louvere 1 3/4 tube they could be inserted. deffinately would be more legal
I have a machine but the smallest I can do is 2 in but i can go to up 4 in louver tubes which could be used in lakes style headders
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i might have to have you make a pair for my lakers
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what you doing to quiet the pipes???
I definately want some sort of baffles. Those pipes are probably temporary, but enough to get the car around. I don't know what works for baffling because i've never built weedburners, but I was going to try a couple methods. I looked at motorcycle baffles for a harley, but they're 6 bucks a piece. That might be cheap. But anyway. . .
1st plan: Cut slits on the back sides of the pipes and weld washers in the tubes. I guess it works quite well.
or,
Make separate baffles like eyeballs "T". The old "cut slits and ding them in with a hammer" method. The idea of having baffles rattle loose is a turn off, however.
Any other suggestions?
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Not sure if you are aware of it or not, but those pipes are not legal. to be legal exhaust has to exit atleast behind the passenger compartment doors and mufflers are required. plus you might find that the longer trips are more enjoyable (ie less smoke and noise in your face). Even in my coupe I have to wear ear protection where i have the exhaust located now. I think I will be putting it out the back of the car this year.
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Not sure if you are aware of it or not, but those pipes are not legal. to be legal exhaust has to exit atleast behind the passenger compartment doors and mufflers are required.
I didn't know that, although I think I knew that mufflers were mandatory. Thanks for the tip though. I imagine you'll be the man inspecting my vehicle for licensing, eh?
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Presidents Day meant I had the day off from work and school. Hellyes. I spent saturday afternoon with pinstriper driving around looking for parts, tools, etc. including some sort of channel to install my winshield into. Couldn't find anything I liked all over town. On monday, I cut up my (too rusty to sell) '38 windshield frame and notched/bent it until if fit on top of my gas tank. I then cut my gas tank and lowered the frame into the top of the tank so it sits flush. Turned out well I think. I still have to grind and smooth everything once I get the glass cut and set in there. Made a better quality template for the glass cutters. I don't have any pics of this process, so you'll just have to trust me.
I had a eureka moment a week or so ago on what exactly was causing my body to be so F'd up. It'd been bothering me forever. So, I bought a bottle jack and tweaked on my body some more. Got the decklid to fit better, though by no means well. At least the decklid fits between the quarter panels now. In the process, the sides of my body stood back up instead of laying over all goofy. I then added stiffer rectangle tube bracing to replace the stock bracing behind the seat area. The body is relatively stiff now.
I guess someone has to have one opportunity in their lives to spend way, way too much time fixing a body that probably wasn't worth using in the first place. I'm sure I have at least a week or two in fixing that body. I'd just cough up the 2-3k for a nicer body in a heartbeat. But this pile has allowed me to dig in and hone whatever skills I've honed by not being afraid to hack into a piece of crap. I'd have had a little tougher time experimenting/cutting anything on a nice body. Confidence/experience is worth something I guess.
My air compressor decided to lock up at 10 am. One of the two rods seized on the crank. When I changed the oil last month, I don't think I put enough in. :roll: $120 later, I'll have my air compressor up when the parts get here, so I spent the day with my electric angle grinder. Man, a year ago I didn't own nor wanted any air tools. I've repented. That and two guys in 1 shop rotating around one angle grinder takes patience on both sides! Between my windshield frame, by roadster body, and my air compressor, that was the day.
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Ahhh....the sweet pursuit of building a hot rod. Just think of the experience you are getting.
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Hopefully I'll get a new memory card for the ol' camera here in a few days... Pete's w/s looks kool so far...I think pics would do it justice!
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i just looked at said frame and i like it. but i do have one word for you...
CHROME
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well thank you sko. Chrome? never thought about it. We'll see how it turns out. Would new chrome look good on a scuzzy car?
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That's what I said....Guess what? I got a memory card last nite- pics up soon!
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i dont think it would hurt
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pics. You may be thinking "is he putting curved glass in there? His cardboard is curved." The frame is not perfectly straight, but not as curved as the curved cardboard makes it look. I hope its straight enough.
I'm cutting the outer posts down about an inch or so when I get the glass in. Til next time. . .
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Did you ever get the engine running?
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see, what that was was reverse psycology on myself. I got a lot of other more important shit done (like the cooling system, windshield frame, body bracing, etc.) when I declared "the engine running would be the next thing I accomplish." Besides, the battery was dead and is charging at Trandem's and I never get to the shop until he's closed and gone.
So, to answer your question: No. I need to wire the ignition. We all know I'm a f'n genius at that. My chevy truck still doesn't run.
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i was gonna ask about the truck but... and i still say chrome
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how bout rustolem chrome?
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how bout rustolem chrome?
Yeah go ahead. it will look great :pukeright:
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Lol!
On the HAMB they were saying some sort of chrome paint actually looked pretty decent. I can't remember what brand.
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I just looked at that thread the other day. You can always strip if off if it looks like shit.
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Alclad. They use it for model cars. Looks pretty good I guess- I don't know how durable it is though.
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it still aint chome and chrome won't get ya home.
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"There's nothing fake about Hot Rods."
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. When's topper's?
April 5-6
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Perfection is the enemy of completion, or something like that?
Thats Other Ryans sig.
That intake looks bitchin! Can't wait to see the linkage! Thing I love about a 4 carb setup, you can't 'dummy' any of the carbs. Its the real megella.
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I'm going to find some ka-niving way to ka-nive those broken, non-working, derelict, impossible-to-fix strombergs into my posession...
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looks like all it would take to fix those carbs is Tops.. just buy 4 REPOP SCOT Tops for em...
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I hav never seen carbs cut up like that. I don't have any tie rods either but I think they are only 10 bux from speedway. If you had heim joints with a 5/8 thread you can get them from the local parts store. I have them or had them on something.
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pete did you deside if you are goinh to narrow the doors. so thare not as thick and more like a roadster door
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pete did you deside if you are goinh to narrow the doors. so thare not as thick and more like a roadster door
Yes, my brethren convinced me that'd be the ticket. But not today. Not tomorrow either. But I will.
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Big Daddy called those big lines "port nozzles".....random but true.....looking good Pete!!
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You should put pics of the carbs up on the HAMB and see if anyone has any ideas on what they may have been on. The mods can't be very common that were done to them.
You should also contact the seller and tell him about the damage. You never know, he may have another 97 he could send you.
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When I was building my T, I found tie rod ends at TSC for a Ford tractor, on a hunch with thinking how tight Henry was and how tight I am ,I picked em up off the clearance table for 3 bucks a piece and they are exactly the same as the old ford car ones...
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I just got a new shift knob for the roadster from Tractor Supply Company too....
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So this is the layout for the floor. I like how the trans cover fits over (straddles) the gussets on the engine block. The floor will be wood and will be retained by the angle iron you see stretched across the floor of the car and the original sub rails. The trans cover will lay on top of the wood and be bolted through the wood to its own frame. Yes, it looks like the brake pedal hits the steering box, but worry not.
I haven't welded in the front plates. You see the drivers side plate finished. Figured I should drill holes for the body mounts before welding. All tubing is welded in, though. The passenger side front plate needs to be finish ground, but you get the idea. The tubing coming out of the subframe was inspired by the floors on Winston Cup cars (the real ones) and those guys who put subframe connectors in camaros. Not the guys who bolt them on, but cut nice slits in the floor and integrate them. I like the look and as long as that old metal likes being welded (it probably doesn't) it will be strong. Still haven't made vertical body gussets/braces, but thats why the good Lord said "all NDSU students shall have the monday after easter off!"
Works for me!
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I cut a floorboard out of some old plywood. I then built a seat back out of a piece of plywood. It wedges itself under the lip in the body on top and wedges into one of the sub-frame cross brace on bottom. Stiffens up the body ALOT. Then built a seat bottom out of. . . plywood. Cut two 1" thick slices out of a piece of 4x4 square tubing. I turned the squares into quadrilaterals and welded them to the angle iron i bent to fit around the front of the seat bottom. see picture.I then knew exactly where I was sitting. Finally. . . I could now finalize where I located my steering and brakes. What do you think of the humvee seat pads? I don't know if I like them, but they work for now. Maybe even just painting the wood OD green would help.
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I then tacked my brake pedal assembly to the frame. The brake assembly is wedged in between the cylinder block, the crossmember, on top of a motor mount, and under the steering box. I have full pedal travel and it doesn't hit anything. That took awhile.
I lowered the steering box mounting bracket down as far as I could possibly go. I didn't want: 1.) the steering wheel scrunching my long legs, 2.) the brake pedal hitting the steering box, 3.) the steering wheel or my knuckles above the windshield, or 4.) A neccessarily long steering arm coming off the steering box. I was balancing the height of the steering box with the height of the steering arm on the drivers side spindle. I want the steering rod angle to look right, so I bent the front steering arm to raise that end about 2". See picture. It should look alright, close enough that I can make a custom length steering arm to hang out of the cowl.
I see now that my tack needs to be mounted on my column somehow. When I'm sitting in my seat, I get a perfect view.
I cut off the fuel fill neck on my swather fuel tank and patched the hole. I drilled a hole behind the cockpit and installed my '38 ford fuel filler neck.
I have a driveshaft!! Thurlows rocks. I assembled my rear brakes. I'm going to use some side mount (on the frame) '47 ford front shocks on the front of my car instead of those other top mount units. I'm putting the top mount shocks on my rear crossmember. If anybody sees an issue with this, speak up. I hope it works better. I'm going to find out how much I don't like lever shocks. I quickly mocked a spot behind my seat for a fuel tank and battery.
Next up, windshield frame, brake lines, fuel lines, and a way to mount my seat belts. I need to finish my lower seat frame and figure out some way of finishing the rear of my interior/front of my trunk area. I haven't decided if I need a new subframe in the rear of my car. Oh, and since my front roll hoop that holds my steering box is preventing me from taking the body off, I'm going to have to make it a bolt on roll hoop instead of welded in. Sound scary? I have monday off too, but I have an exam at noon. Til next time. . .
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WOW! Way to go now that is some serious work.
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Holy crap, progress! Give me a call if you're gonna be working on stuff tonight, I'll try to stop by.
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Excellent Pete!! Careful with that battery next to the fuel tank though.
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I sounded like an old lady.....lame!
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Thanks guys. I'll be at the shop tonight except around dinner time.
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looks good dr. youll be driveing in no time
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Pete got some help finding a decklid...original '29 non- rumble. Bottom of the damn thing is as solid as the top!
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Well, the roadster is put away for awhile. This is what it looks like right now. For the life of me I can't find the #8 exhaust pipe. . . oh well, to be continued. . . .
p.s. the pictures are huge
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looks like a damn nice car pete
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looks good
sure hard to be enthused during a mist storm and getting colder :cry: , time to put those open cars away
I was so thrilled to get my roadster and make my first car show at Devils Lake then it pours buckets :roll: and spend a couple hours under a gas station canopy in GF
well just a few more connections and you will be flying next spring :D
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how about this color
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h257/BadBob_2006/Bad%20Bob%202008/VillageIdiots259-1.jpg
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(http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h257/BadBob_2006/Bad%20Bob%202008/VillageIdiots259-1.jpg)
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white is nice
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Damn that windshield looks great.
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are we on the right post right now? Kinda came out of nowhere, but thats cool. Poor roadster is feeling forgotten, I can feel it.
I like the idea of a dark, dark blue with a creme firewall and creme painted interior, mostly because it "covers up" the corroded cracks at major seams in the car that I can't fix (quarter panel to the filler panel behind the "cockpit," screwed, for example). I'll probably apply it with a roller and sand smooth, to be honest. Stop shaking your head. Some areas on this car are beyond my ability and drive to fix.
I'm definately up to other dark colored suggestions. Not black. Some sort of goofy somewhat questionably good looking old color that looks good faded and/or flat would work, preferably with black wheels. Should look good with olive drab canvas too.
Ryan, if you're talking about my windshield and not the merc, thank you. Eberhama helped me get that done.
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sorry ive been kinda random lately i think that green would look good faded but dark blue works too. did you get the suports to the frame(chrome) done or are you taling about the shape
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I'm smitten by the '54 Ford Kilarney green. Mmmmmm.
And yeah, I was talking about your w/s.
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I'm smitten by the '54 Ford Kilarney green. Mmmmmm.
And yeah, I was talking about your w/s.
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I hope when I brace the A pillars it doesn't ruin the effect. Wish I had a roadster cowl, eh?
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Having a mental block with this darn car. Here's the deal: I was trying to build it cheaper and build the car around parts I had available. I also started the car before knowing exactly what I wanted, which was impossible if I'm building the car from parts I had vs. parts needed to complete the vision. I built in some cool ideas and visions I had during the build, which I still like, but over-constrained myself and ended up making many things more complicated than they really needed to be. Familiar with the rolling bones' 31 a roadster? Looks sweet to me at this point.
Need to think on paper (or on screen). Any suggestions?
A few things are bothering me:
1. Rear trailing arms are threatening to hit the frame (T rear spring), front spring mount on the trailing arm is too long (ie. the spring is not long enough)
2. iffy proportions. car looks like a weiner dog. long and skinny, bow in the middle. Need to fatten it up
3. 394 olds is too much. Period.
4. I like cowl steering, but I don't want an ugly, visible bunch of supports under my dash. My feet have to fit somewhere down there too. Oh, and I need a really long steering arm off the box to bend and exit the cowl. The box is completely inside the cowl.
5. Need to weld the windshield frame to something solid. The roll hoop?
6. need a third link in the rear suspension. Floor is really low on this car, no provisions for a tunnel. Don't want the 3rd link to be too visible.
7. need a good way to build a rear subframe so I can bolt the body down to the frame at the rear.
possible solutions:
1. buy 2 different springs that both are the correct length and strength to allow me to build a shorter, stronger mounting point on the front trailing arms and will keep my frame from bottoming out on the rear trailing arms. PROBLEM: this will raise the car in the air front and rear, making the "wiener dog" effect more pronounced.
2. Planned torque tube side pipes directly under the body to help the proportions. "The Man" says I have to have exhaust exit behind the driver anyways. . . :)
2. install 6.50 or 7.00 tire in the rear
3. ditch and store 394. install olds 324. It might change everything though, the tranny is grazing the crossmember, for example. Banjo rearend gonna hold??
4. pictoral suggestions? Cough up $$$ for a schroeder?
5. weld a flange on the front roll hoop and bolt to frame. Tie it into the fabricated subframe braces I already hid within the existing subframe
6. stop whining and fabricate a floor tunnel. the subframe has been pieced together from 16 pieces anyways, whats a couple more cuts and welds?
7. shut up and build it.
I'm not giving up. Anything I'm not thinking of?
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1 move the arms in twards the center 1 to 2 in ches ber side
2 paint it brown and black like a weiner dog
3 there is no such thing as too much(just broken parts)
4 bolt in braceing
5 just fill sith sheetmetal and hafa stiffner up inside the cowl top
6 run it alomg side the drive shaft maybe only one bar(tube)
7 yep shut it and go thats how i did my floor
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1. The engineer in me devised this engine mount crossmember where it doubles as the trailing arm mount. Kept the engine low (too low?) for a short roll moment and allowed me to keep the mounts as close to the centerline of the frame as possible (like what the designers had in mind originally from the factory). The arm mounts are under the frame, really close to the engine already, in danger of kissing frame if I hit a bump in a corner. Might try it though, would like to ditch the heim joints and use tie rod ends.
2. woof
3. The banjo rearend agrees.
4. roger that.
5. sith?
6. I might copy yours
7. will do.
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You can Z the trailing arms buy using front wishbones from a 46-48.
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6. you could do like I did and make a torque arm like hot rod works sells.
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you know sith like darth vader or with
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i meant move them in on the rear end not the pivot point
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You can Z the trailing arms buy using front wishbones from a 46-48.
Youre talking fronts right? the ones with an "S" curve in them? I have them already, I think.
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Yea, there is a tech thing on the hamb about it.
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I've got an extra set of those if you need them pete!
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Here is a pic of a 34 frame with this done kinda backwards of what I think you need to do but you get the idea.
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I gotta say I like Ross's idea of moving the mounts on the axles in more. Look more in place on the car, and being it's got the ball mount on the front, it won't really effect anything ride or handling wise.
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these are the rolling bones ladder bars made from radius rods and tube
(http://image.automotive.com/f/tech/14366615+soriginal/0902sr_25_z+building_hot_rod_rear_suspension+rearend.jpg)
http://streetrodder.automotive.com/99815/0902sr-building-hot-rod-rear-suspension/index.html
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So, at least to try the simplest method first, would an A rear spring be stiffer AND/OR taller in static height than the T spring I have in there now? Which is taller?
I know a new front spring would be stiffer. The existing spring is an A spring, but its original. I'll have to get a reversed eye type.
I do like that Hot Rod Works method, Todd, thank you. I'll be copying that but I may have to bend it to clear the floor. Should be a simple fix though.
I'm going to avoid moving the rearend trailing arm mounts in as it kind of untriangulates a design that relies on triangulation of the trailing arms to keep the rearend from swaying side to side. I could install a lateral locating device (like a panhard bar) to control the lateral movement but I'd like to avoid that mess too.
I may even bite the bullet and buy the adapter to move the starter to the passenger side so I can install the steering box down on the frame. I already have the oil filter relocation flange thats needed. The pinched frame rails didn't leave much room under the dash for tubes and stuff, and i'm having trouble finding an acceptable solution for the pitman arm problem.
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Thank you for the tips/suggestions so far guys.
Is there any reason to continue to have the cowl gas tank removable? The question comes from the windshield mounting. If i remember right, I'll probably have to permanently make the cowl one piece. Any issues with that?
Are there any reasons why the windhield frame couldn't be welded to the tank from underneath? One would think the a pillars and gas tank would support the windshield with help from braces similar to a cris craft boat. 1 in the center, and the a pillars. Otherwise, I'd have to create a flange on the tank and the A pillars to screw the winshield frame down to. Any thoughts?
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these are the rolling bones ladder bars made from radius rods and tube
(http://image.automotive.com/f/tech/14366615+soriginal/0902sr_25_z+building_hot_rod_rear_suspension+rearend.jpg)
http://streetrodder.automotive.com/99815/0902sr-building-hot-rod-rear-suspension/index.html
Man, that quickchange sure is pretty.
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Pete, when I was putting my T together, I started with a T spring stretched to my 40 rearend but later ended up putting a A rear spring back in. I think the T spring is higher but is shorter from eye to eye. So if you stretch it farther it ends up bringing the car lower .Hope that makes sense to ya.
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since its just sheetmetal and not a tank no not really. unless your master cylender is up in there
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Pete, you can reverse your own front spring as per the Hamb. I did mine just to see if I could and I dont think it took me 45 minutes total.It works fine...
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and i have the tool to do it too
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See pic below. Does anybody know what the name of these tires are and if anyone still makes them?
Random indecisive thoughts:
. . . This car was on the HAMB and the pic was taken in 1958 or 59 and I like it. Lower stance, chrome, OHV, normal steering, fun interior, chrome steelies. Its kinda where I started on this project, but then tried to evolve it into a post-war lakes car as I learned more about the traditions and fell in love with the dry lakes era but its time to face facts. . . this car aint gonna be unless I start over. . .
. . . My rear axle is cramping the car up in so many ways and I think its gonna have to go along with the steering wheel. . .
. . . getting tired of trying to save too much money, not liking the result, and spending the money anyways.
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I vote you put the rebuilt 324 in the roadster, which you channel over '32 rails with the olds rearend under it; then you get chrome stuff, pick a year (I like the '58-'59 era) and go for it. ('32 grille shell too...)
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See pic below. Does anybody know what the name of these tires are and if anyone still makes them?
www.hurstracingtires.com I think they are starting to make them again.
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See pic below. Does anybody know what the name of these tires are and if anyone still makes them?
www.hurstracingtires.com I think they are starting to make them again.
perfect. . . thanks!!
Joel, I appreciate the opinion, I'm wandering a bit and appreciate a bitch slap wake up with a touch of direction from my compadres.
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Well if you really want my opinion... I'd say sell what you have now for what you can and buy a brookville '29 A roadster body and deuce rails... then build a frame like Eyeball's, (but lower) put in the 324, and paint it a dark green metalflake with a pearl white interior and a touch of chrome here and there....
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Keep the body you have.....change steering.......olds or 9" rear. As far as the frame goes I just can't remember what you had going on there but I don't think there was a problem with it......but if you want to toss some $'s at it then get a set of 32 rails and sweep the front and kick up the rear and run a 40 spring.
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Ha, if you didnt know this picture was old you'd guess the blond was talking on her cell phone...that A looks like its channeled about as much as my 29. I dont think Pete would even fit in it as I cant fit in mine. If I remember mine was channeled 11 inches...I would not advise that route. I think a duece frame is definately the way to go...
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What Eyeball said.
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I dig. . .
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http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196203
My future kick up. Read the whole thread if you feel like laughing.
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http:// Read the whole thread if you feel like laughing.
I did. :lol: :lol:
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Interesting. I've never seen it done that way before.
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Whitewalls or Blackwalls?
http://store.cokertire.com/820-15-firestone-4-1-4-whitewall-tire.html (http://store.cokertire.com/820-15-firestone-4-1-4-whitewall-tire.html)
Gonna need 15's because thats what wheel is on the '55 olds rear axle. Blackwall is $50 cheaper.
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I like black wslls
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Any updates? There should be by now...
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Nope
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How 'bout now?